In a world where wine is neatly categorized into red, white, and rosé, a fourth type has been steadily gaining popularity, challenging conventions and delighting adventurous palates. This is orange wine, a vibrant, complex, and often misunderstood category that is simultaneously the oldest and one of the newest trends in the wine world. Far from being a fleeting fad, orange wine represents a return to ancient winemaking techniques, offering a flavour profile and texture unlike any other.
The name “orange wine” itself is a relatively modern invention, coined by British wine importer David A. Harvey in 2004. Other, perhaps more accurate, names include “skin-contact white wine,” “skin-fermented white wine,” or “amber wine,” the Georgian term being karvisperi ghvino. All of these names hint at the crucial factor that defines this style: its production method.
The Winemaking Method: Red Wine Technique, White Wine Grapes
Orange wine is fundamentally a white wine made using the technique traditionally reserved for red wine.
In conventional white wine production, the grapes are crushed, and the juice is immediately separated from the skins, seeds, and stems. This prevents the extraction of color, tannins, and certain flavour compounds, resulting in the light, clear, and crisp white wines most people are familiar with.
To create orange wine, however, white wine grapes are crushed, and the resulting juice, known as “must,” is allowed to ferment in contact with the grape skins. This period of skin contact, or maceration, can range from as little as a few days to several months, or even a year. The skins are rich in color pigments, phenols, and tannins, which are transferred to the fermenting juice, much like in red winemaking.
This extended skin contact accomplishes several things. First, it imparts the wine’s characteristic color, which can range from a pale golden hue to deep amber, a russet copper, or a striking sunset orange. Second, it extracts tannins, giving the resulting wine a structure, texture, and ‘grip’ that is entirely absent in conventional white wines. Finally, it pulls out unique aromatic and flavour compounds, creating a complex and layered profile.
Traditional winemaking in Georgia often uses large, subterranean clay vessels called qvevri for fermentation and aging. This ancient method, which dates back 8,000 years, is a hallmark of the original orange wine production and is still practiced by many producers today.
An 8,000 Year History and Modern Revival
While it may seem like a new trend appearing on hip wine lists, the technique of making skin-contact white wine is one of the world’s oldest forms of winemaking.
The history of orange wine originates in the country of Georgia, considered the birthplace of wine. Archaeological evidence points to Georgian winemakers fermenting grapes in qvevri as far back as 6000 BCE. The practice naturally spread to other regions, notably northeastern Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia and neighboring Slovenia, where it was practiced for centuries.
The style fell out of favor in the mid 20th century, largely due to the popularization of modern, temperature-controlled, and “technically correct” white wines. These modern wines emphasized a clean, pale, and purely fruity style, pushing the bolder, earthier, and more rustic skin-contact whites out of the market.
The resurgence began in the 1990s, led by a handful of pioneering Italian and Slovenian winemakers, such as Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon, who were inspired by the ancient Georgian tradition. They consciously rejected the industrialization of modern wine and embraced low-intervention, traditional techniques, often reintroducing the use of qvevri. From there, the style began to spread globally, with producers in Austria, the United States, New Zealand, and beyond experimenting with the technique and different grape varieties like Ribolla Gialla, Rkatsiteli, and Pinot Grigio (known as Ramato in Italy).
Orange wine has also become closely associated with the natural wine movement. Because the extended skin contact provides natural protection from oxidation through the extracted tannins, many orange wines are made with minimal intervention, using organic or biodynamic grapes, wild yeasts, and little to no added sulfur dioxide, often bottled unfiltered and unfined.
The Unique Flavour and Texture
The experience of tasting orange wine can be a surprise to those expecting a typical white wine. Its complex nature means that no two orange wines taste exactly alike, with the flavour profile heavily dependent on the grape variety, the length of skin contact, and the fermentation vessel. However, certain common characteristics define the style:
- Color: Ranging from deep gold and amber to a vibrant, coppery orange.
- Aromas: The nose is often highly aromatic and savory, with notes of dried apricot, bruised apple, orange peel, peach, honey, dried flowers, tea, and sometimes a nutty or slightly oxidative note.
- Texture and Tannins: The most distinctive element is the texture. Orange wine possesses a notable tannic grip and a weighty mouthfeel, attributes usually found only in red wine. These tannins provide a structural element that is savory and slightly bitter, akin to the pith of a citrus fruit.
- Flavour: The palate is generally dry and complex, often expressing a balance of fresh acidity with rich, layered flavours of stone fruits, nuts (like almond), and spice. Some can have a pronounced “funky” or earthy quality due to minimal intervention and natural winemaking processes.
Pairing with Difficult Foods
One of the greatest deals with orange wine is its incredible versatility as a food pairing wine, a consequence of its structure as a “bridge” between white and red wine. The combination of acidity, savory character, and tannins allows it to complement dishes that are notoriously difficult to pair with traditional wines.
The wine’s bold structure stands up beautifully to rich, flavorful, and even spicy dishes. Excellent pairings include:
- Asian Cuisine: The tannins and acidity cut through the complexity of dishes like Thai curries, Korean kimchi, and Indian food.
- Fermented Foods: The savory and sometimes funky notes of orange wine harmonize perfectly with fermented foods like sauerkraut or the aforementioned kimchi.
- Middle Eastern Cuisine: Dishes like hummus, falafel, and other mezze are beautifully complemented by the wine’s complex aromatics.
- Aged Cheeses: The structure of orange wine can handle strong, mature cheeses, including aged cheddar, Pecorino, or even pungent blue cheese, acting like a red wine in its ability to manage the cheese’s fat and richness.
- Tricky Vegetables: It pairs well with challenging ingredients such as asparagus, artichokes, and roasted root vegetables.
Orange wine is a profound and ancient category of wine that offers a rich journey for the curious drinker. It challenges the conventional understanding of white wine and provides a refreshing, texturally engaging, and food-friendly experience that is well worth exploring.