Eyeliner, a simple stroke of pigment around the eyes, has captivated humanity for millennia. What began as a practical and spiritual tool in ancient civilizations has evolved into a global symbol of beauty, rebellion, and self-expression. From the dramatic kohl-lined eyes of Egyptian queens to the viral tutorials flooding TikTok feeds today, eyeliner’s journey reflects shifting cultural norms, technological advancements, and artistic innovations. This article delves into its rich history, exploring how this cosmetic staple has transcended time and borders to become an essential part of modern makeup routines.
Ancient Origins: The Birth of Eyeliner in Mesopotamia and Egypt
The story of eyeliner begins around 10,000 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, where it served purposes far beyond aesthetics. In these early civilizations, people used dark pigments to outline their eyes, believing it offered protection against the evil eye, a malevolent force thought to bring misfortune. The primary material was kohl, a fine powder derived from natural sources like soot, galena (a lead sulfide mineral), or charred ingredients such as date seeds or plants. Both men and women applied it generously, creating bold lines that extended beyond the natural eye shape.
In ancient Egypt, eyeliner reached new heights of significance. Egyptians associated it with the gods, viewing the darkened eyes as a way to invoke divine protection. It also had practical benefits: the pigment helped reduce glare from the intense desert sun and may have had antimicrobial properties to ward off infections common in the Nile’s humid environment. Queen Nefertiti, whose bust discovered in 1912 showcases her iconic elongated eyes, exemplified this style. Her eyeliner, analyzed in modern labs, contained substances that boosted nitric oxide production in the skin, aiding in fighting bacteria.
Cleopatra, the legendary Ptolemaic queen who ruled from 51 to 30 BCE, is perhaps the most famous figure linked to eyeliner. She wore thick black kohl to accentuate her eyes, symbolizing power, divinity, and allure. Historical accounts suggest she used a mixture of galena and malachite for green hues, applied with bone or ivory sticks. This look not only enhanced her beauty but also aligned her with the goddess Isis. Cleopatra’s influence extended beyond her lifetime; her style inspired countless depictions in art and film, cementing eyeliner as a tool of seduction and authority.
As Egyptian influence spread, eyeliner appeared in neighboring cultures. In Mesopotamia, it protected against harsh winds and sand, while in the Arabian Peninsula, it became a daily ritual for both genders. The Prophet Muhammad reportedly used ithmid kohl for its medicinal benefits, encouraging its adoption in Islamic traditions as a Sunnah (recommended practice).
Spread to Other Ancient Cultures: Greece, Rome, and Beyond
By the time of ancient Greece and Rome, eyeliner had diffused westward. Greeks adopted kohl as a status symbol, applying it to denote social rank. Romans, influenced by Egyptian conquests, integrated it into their beauty regimens, though it waned as the empire focused on other cosmetics like rouge. In these societies, eyeliner retained its dual role: aesthetic enhancement and protection against eye ailments.
Further east, eyeliner flourished in diverse forms. In India, kajal made from soot and oils was used in traditional dances like Kathakali, where performers applied bold lines to exaggerate expressions. Japanese geishas employed mebari, a red or black liner, to create delicate, almond-shaped eyes. In West Africa, Nigerian communities used tiro, a charcoal-based pigment, for similar protective and beautifying purposes. Among the Wodaabe tribes in Chad, men donned eyeliner during beauty pageants, using beaded kohl pots as talismans. These examples highlight eyeliner’s gender-inclusive nature in many non-Western cultures, contrasting with later European attitudes.
Medieval, Renaissance, and Victorian Eras: A Period of Decline in the West
As Europe entered the Middle Ages, eyeliner’s popularity diminished. Christian doctrines often viewed elaborate makeup as sinful or associated with paganism. During the Renaissance, pale skin symbolized purity and wealth, and while some used eyeliner to create contrast, it was not widespread. In the Victorian Era, strict social norms deemed eyeliner “forbidden” for respectable women, linking it to actresses or “women of the night.” Queen Victoria herself shunned heavy makeup, favoring a natural look.
However, in non-European regions, traditions persisted. In the Middle East, kohl remained a staple, handmade from soot collected by burning olive oil-soaked cloth. Bedouin communities applied it during rites of passage, such as weddings or marking manhood. In Iran, sormeh served as a form of cultural resistance, while Palestinian women preserved recipes amid conflicts.
The 20th Century Revival: From Silent Films to Punk Rebellion
Eyeliner’s resurgence in the West began in the early 20th century. The 1912 discovery of Nefertiti’s bust ignited “Egyptomania,” inspiring fashion and beauty trends. This culminated in 1922 with the unearthing of King Tutankhamun’s tomb, sparking a global fascination with Egyptian aesthetics. Silent film stars like Theda Bara and Greta Garbo popularized dramatic, kohl-rimmed eyes, making eyeliner a symbol of Hollywood glamour.
The 1960s brought the mod era, with model Twiggy’s bold, graphic lines defining the decade. Paired with pale shadows, this look emphasized youth and rebellion. The 1970s and 1980s saw eyeliner in punk and new wave scenes, where artists like David Bowie and Siouxsie Sioux used it for androgynous, edgy expressions. In the 1990s and early 2000s, Goth and Emo subcultures embraced smudged, heavy liner, with figures like Amy Winehouse elevating the cat-eye to iconic status.
Technological advancements transformed eyeliner. From pencils in the 1920s to liquid formulas in the 1950s, products became more accessible and precise. Brands like Max Factor and Revlon mass-produced them, democratizing the trend.
The Modern Era: Inclusivity, Innovation, and Digital Influence
In the 21st century, eyeliner has become more inclusive and versatile. The 2010s popularized the winged liner, inspired by mid-century icons but adapted for diverse eye shapes. Subcultures like Mexican American cholas used it to challenge Eurocentric standards, turning it into a statement of identity.
Sustainability and health concerns have driven innovations. Modern formulas avoid lead, focusing on vegan, eco-friendly ingredients. Gel pots, felt-tip pens, and stamp tools offer precision for styles like cut creases or graphic designs.
From Cleopatra to TikTok: The Digital Revolution
Today, TikTok has revolutionized eyeliner’s cultural landscape, with over 62 million posts showcasing tutorials and trends. The platform democratizes beauty, allowing users to experiment with historical inspirations like Cleopatra’s bold lines alongside modern twists.
In 2024 and 2025, trends lean toward subtlety and versatility. Black winged liner has given way to short brown wings and waterline applications for a natural look. Waterproof formulas peak during holidays and summer, ensuring longevity. Glitter techniques and siren eyes, a smoky, elongated style, dominate feeds. Brown liners and natural glitter eyeshadows reflect a shift to “tired makeup” or grunge vibes, blending nostalgia with innovation.
Influencers recreate ancient looks, such as historically accurate Cleopatra makeup using kohl, while viral challenges compare styles from 2020 to 2025. TikTok’s algorithm amplifies diverse voices, from Bedouin-inspired applications to geisha mebari tutorials, echoing eyeliner’s global roots.
Conclusion
Eyeliner’s history is a testament to human creativity and resilience. From Cleopatra’s empowering gaze to TikTok’s endless innovations, it has protected, adorned, and empowered across eras. As technology advances with AR try-ons and sustainable formulas, eyeliner remains a canvas for personal stories. Whether warding off the evil eye or perfecting a wing, it continues to define who we are, one stroke at a time.